#004 Designing the very first collection of my fashion brand

I remember when I started writing this article on March 11th, I was still picking the designs I wanted to show in the first collection. A week later, I was going to Porto to officially start production, or at least complete the samples. Now, as I finish writing this article, I'm still in Porto, in the middle of production, dealing with the same doubts and learning to coordinate a supply chain.

As a creative, I am always full of idea and my brain never stops chruning when I am designing clothes. If it were up to me, the first collection would probably consist of more than 40 designs. However, I want to respect both my budget and the planet, so I've chosen to embrace a slow-growth and slow-fashion approach.

But how to choose if I wanted everything? I began to define some criteria to select and eliminate some of my designs:

• Opting for versatility in certain models

• Showcasing quality craftsmanship was essential

• Finding a balance between statement pieces and everyday wear was crucial

• Adding elements of my roots into the collection was important

So, I selected only 4 to 6 models (I am still deciding whether to launch everything simultaneously). Then, it was time to figure out how to bring this collection to life.

Actually, I didn’t know anybody in the fashion industry who could help me find the resources I needed to bring that first collection to life. Finding the right suppliers was the hardest part of this project. The first collection was ready and almost defined, but I didn’t really know how to bring it to reality, or if it was financially possible because I had no idea about production costs. I needed a plan to organise myself better and create a serious business plan to know where I was going.

My plan, looking for suppliers to work with (only small quantities suppliers with no minimums), sourcing the fabrics at the same time to learn about market costs and the materials I could use (deadstock and/or organic fabrics), then developing the first samples to get a quote, validate or adapt the collection according to my resources. And finally, buying the fabrics and launching the production. So first, I started to look for suppliers. The only things I knew for sure were that I absolutely wanted to work mostly with European manufacturers, and if possible, manufacturers from only one country. After some research, I chose Portugal, for several reasons:

• The know-how in the textile industry in Portugal is just amazing

• It was crucial to collaborate with ethical companies that provide respectful working conditions

• I wanted all the manufacturing to be in one location, and Portugal has many different fashion manufacturers, from embroideries to cutting, textile printing, and production of items like knitwear and bikinis

• Being close to the supply chain was important so I could visit and meet the companies I work with. Living in France, Portugal was a good choice

• I speak Portuguese better than English, which made it easier to communicate with companies, explain my ideas and my vision

After two months of research, I felt hopeless. I couldn’t find any company without a minimum production requirement, which was very challenging since I didn’t know anyone in the fashion industry in Portugal. But thanks to my one and only, I met someone who changed the game. Rita, the cheerful girl in the photos below! In just two weeks, she found a small company near Porto with no minimum quantity requirement and years of experience. Right after, we decided to visit and meet the sewers, and it was a perfect match! We were thrilled and incredibly happy; it was a relief for me. From that moment, everything started to fall into place, and every opportunity we pursued led to another. Just like that, we built a small network in the fashion world of Porto, which continues to grow. Developing the collection alongside the manufacturers helped me create a more reliable business plan with actual costs. We finally completed the supply chain, and while unforeseen events still occur, the production is organised. We're still making adjustments to a few designs, so things are taking a bit longer than expected. However, I don't want to rush; I want to enjoy the journey, so I'm taking my time.

My recap, lessons learned and rewards

Challenges

• Choosing only a few models for the 1st collection

• Finding a manufacturer for production with no minimum quantity requirement

Successes

• The supply chain is complete

• The production is underway

• All production manufacturers are gathered in the north of Portugal which made everything easier

Insights

• The business plan helped me work more serenely
• Networking is crucial
• I will always have doubts about my designs